The roar of the Pacific Ocean reminds me to breathe, which is why I need to get to the coast from Portland at least twice a year. One route to the sea is Route 30 to Long Beach, WA.
The road is two lanes, and you will be there in an hour and a half with a good podcast. You must stop at the Blue Scorcher Bakery & Cafe to stock up on homemade treats. Astoria has much to do, from barking sea lions below the Astoria Riverwalk to art galleries and thrift shops downtown. You can stop here, get a room at Norblad Hotel, and have a great weekend, especially if you like history and breweries. But I recommend you cross the four-mile bridge over the mighty Columbia River to Washington State to see the waves.
Stay in a vintage trailer at the Historic Sou’wester Lodge. This place has an authentic PNW vibe and is only a few blocks from the beach. They host intimate live music shows in the cozy living room every Saturday night, and you are welcome to join, even if you are not a guest. Another option is to book an oceanfront campsite or yurt at Cape Disappointment. This stretch of the beach does not have trucks, so you will feel comfortable putting out your beach chair, making a fire, and watching the sunset.
For the best adventure, bring your bike or rent one at Tsunami Cycle and ride (15 miles round trip) on the Discovery Trail. This trail rides past dunes, wetlands, and forests; you will get a spectacular view from North Point Lighthouse. If you prefer to hike, I recommend starting at Waikiki Beach at Cape Disappointment and walking 2 miles round trip to the oh-so Instagramable Deadman’s Cove. Head past the cranberry bogs to the Salmon Art Trail at Ellsworth Creek Preserve for another lovely walk. If you are smart enough to bring your watercraft and are confident paddling in a tidal bay, put it in at the boat ramp across from Ellsworth Creek.
If you visit between October and April, you can dig for clams right on Long Beach. You can drop your crab pots from the North Columbia River Jetty at Cape Disappointment and boil them over the camp stove by dinner. If catching your own dinner is not your thing, make a reservation for a table with a fantastic ocean view at the Pickled Fish Restaurant. Some other tasty local options are The Depot Restaurant or Salt Pub in Ilwaco.
Nothing helps me restore like walking on the beach and watching the sunset. If you want a sweet getaway, try this quick weekend ocean adventure, which will not disappoint!
